FiberBabble Says

Looping Chalices Hat Pattern

2010-01-06T14:41:00.001-08:00

Looping Chalices

As I watched the mercury drop further and further and appear to pick up speed on its way down, I knew I needed a hat! Hats and I do not get along very well .. I just do not look good in them. After much thought and discussion, it was decided to try to a beret / slouch type hat and this is what I came up with.

This is actually a hat that was intended for use with recycled yarn - the yarn I used has a 15% wool content and is fuzzy-ish, so the yarn weights here may vary if you use a new yarn - It knit up very fast (2 days) and is a little big on me, but I've a small head - My first hat pattern and I've had a lot of fun making it! I hope you have as much fun as I did making it!

needles: US10 DPN or 2 circulars
stitch markers
weight: worsted or sport / Dk double stranded
size: average

Glossary:
yf: bring yarn from back to front
sl 1: slip 1 stitch from left to right needle
psso: pass slip stitch over

CO 75 sts, working one row ribbing for 1"
Increase row: increase 1 stitch every 3rd stitch (96 sts on needle)
2nd increase row: increase approx every 3rd - 4th stitch (123 stitches on needle)

Pattern Stitch
1st Row: (right side) K2, yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, k1, *(yf, k1) twice, sl 1, k1 psso, k3, k2tog, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, yf, k2

2nd and alt rows: K

3rd Row: k3, * yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, k1, yf, k3; rep from * to end

5th Row: k4, yf, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yf, * k5, yf, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yf; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4

7th Row: k2, k2tog, k1, yf, k3, yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso, *k1, k2tog, k1, yf, k3, yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso; rep fro * to last 2 sts, k2

9th Row: k1, sl 1, k1, psso, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, *sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1

11th Row: k3, * k2tog, k1, (yf, k1) twice, sl 1, k1, psso, k3; rep from * to end

13th Row: k2, k2tog, k1, yf, k3, yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso, * k1, k2tog, k1, yf, k3, yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from * to last 2 st, k2

15th Row: k1, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, yf, k5, yf, k1 * sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yf, k5, yf, k1; rep from * to last 3 st, k2tog, k1

17th Row: k3, * yf, k1, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, k1, yf, k3; rep from * to end

19th Row: k3, *, yf, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, yf, k3; rep from * to end

20th Row: Knit

Complete 2 sets of pattern stitch.

Decrease Row 1: K1, K2tog - rep these 2 stitches until end
Decrease Row 2: K

Repeat these rows 3 times

Decrease Row 7: K1, K2tog - rep for one round

Using a yarn needle and tail from yarn, draw yarn through stitches to close hole, weave in ends and enjoy! Block if needed.

PDF Links:
grace quilts website
Google Docs
Doc Stock Profile Page

Inter-locked Hearts Dishcloths Pattern

2009-02-01T12:21:00.001-08:00

Please note that there has been a correction to Row 30 for this pattern.

February is Hearts month for my February KAL group and just about every other group in the free world .. I went on a heart dishcloth knitting frenzy and while I was making other patterns, I had the image of inter-locked hearts flitting through my brain – so of course, I had to pattern it out ..

I love abstract line-art and wanted these hearts to be free-formed floating linked forever.. Yeah I’m a hopeless romantic

I hope you enjoy making this as much as I have

Inter-Locked Hearts Dishcloth

Materials:
Lily Sugar n Cream
Size 7 Needles

Directions:
CO 41 stitches

Row 1 - *K1, P1* to end
Row 2 - *K1, P1* to end
Row 3 - *K1, P1* to end
Row 4 - *K1, P1* to end
Row 5 and all odd rows - K1, P1, Knit across to last 2 stitches, P1, K1
Row 6 - K1, P1, K1, Purl across to last 3 stitches, K1, P1, K1
Row 8 - K1, P1, K1, Purl across to last 3 stitches, K1, P1, K1
Row 10 - K1, P1, K1, P26, K2, P7, K1, P1, K1
Row 12 - K1, P1, K1, P27, K2, P6, K1, P1, K1
Row 14 - K1, P1, K1, P14, K2, P2, K2, P8, K2, P5, K1, P1, K1
Row 16 - K1, P1, K1, P15, K4, P10, K2, P4, K1, P1, K1
Row 18 - K1, P1, K1, P4, K2, P10, K2, P12, K2, P3, K1, P1, K1
Row 20 - K1, P1, K1, P3, K2, P10, K4, P12, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1
Row 22 - K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P10, K2, P2, K2, P12, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 24 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P10, K2, P4, K2, P11, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 26 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P10, K2, P5, K2, P1, K1, P8, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 28 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P10, K2, P5, K3, P1, K2, P6, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 30 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P11, K2, P4, K2, P3, K2, P5, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1
Row 32 - K1, P1, K1, P2, K2, P8, K1, P2, K6, P5, K2, P3, K2, P2, K1, P1, K1
Row 34 - K1, P1, K1, P3, K2, P5, K2, P1, K2, P4, K2, P7, K3, P4, K1, P1, K1
Row 36 - K1, P1, K1, P4, K2, P3, K2, P3, K2, P2, K2, P15, K1, P1, K1
Row 38 - K1, P1, K1, P6, K3, P7, K2, P17, K1, P1, K1
Row 40 - K1, P1, K1, Purl across to last 3 stitches, K1, P1, K1
Row 42 - K1, P1, K1, Purl across to last 3 stitches, K1, P1, K1
Row 44 - K1, P1, K1, Purl across to last 3 stitches, K1, P1, K1
Row 45 - *K1, P1*, to end
Row 46 - *K1, P1*, to end
Row 47 - *K1, P1*, to end
Row 48 - *K1, P1*, to end
BO

PDF of pattern available through my profile line at docstock - Interlocked Hearts Dishcloth PDF

Edited 2.18.09 to add a misses stitch to Row 30
Previous row - Row 30 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P11, K2, P4, K2, P3, K2, P5, P1, K1, P1, K1
Edited Row - Row 30 - K1, P1, K1, P1, K2, P11, K2, P4, K2, P3, K2, P5, K2, P1, K1, P1, K1

Shadow Mittens Pattern

2009-01-20T14:40:00.000-08:00

This project was for my January KAL for One-Skein KAL Group on Ravelry. I hunted down a TON of patterns and I liked this and that of various ones - but really nothing that bit me on the nose in MY size. The biggest problem I had was the size. I have a very small hand. I also wanted to use aran / worsted weight as I've a ton of it in onsie-twosie skein counts. I LOVE cables! Adore them, and I wanted to do cables for these mittens. Well the upshot was, I started several of them, and frogged them all too! So I finally went digging and decided to use a cable pattern in my Vogue Knitting book, and adapted that as the cuff on a basic mitten pattern. These mittens are likely a medium size. For a large size, use size 7 needles and worsted / aran weight yarn that will give you 5 stitches / inch. For small I would suggest (but this is in no way tested) use a size 5 needle on same weight yarn.

Now no rock throwing, this is my first knitting pattern, would prefer if you threw yarn or quilt batting :) Have fun with this

Grace

MATERIALS:
Main Colour (MC) - 3.5 oz Aran Weight yarn - I used Caron Dazzleaire which is discontinued.
Contrast Colour (CC) - 100g Aran Weight yarn - I used some left over Caron Dazzleaire for this as well and have plenty left.

Stitch Markers
Tapestry Needle
Cable Needle
Stitch Holder

Size - Ladies Medium
Needles - Size 6 DPN
Gauge - 11 stitches / 14 rows = 2"

GLOSSARY:
C6F - Slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, K3, K3 from cable needle, K6
C6B - K6, Slip 3 stitches to cable needle and hold in back, K3, K3 from cable needle
M1 - Make 1
PM - Place Marker
K2tog - K2 together

CABLE CUFF
CO 16 stitches with waste yarn - change to CC
Row 1 - K1, P1, Knit to last 2 stitches, P1, K1
Row 2 - K2, Purl to last 2 stitches, K2
Row 3 - K1, P1, C6F, P1, K1
Row 4 - K2, Purl to last 2 stitches, K2
Row 5 - K1, P1, Knit to last 2 stitches, P1, K1
Row 6 - K2, Purl to last 2 stitches, K2
Row 7 - K1, P1, C6B, K1, P1
Row 8 - K2, Purl to last 2 stitches, K2

Repeat these 8 rows, 6 times. Remove waste yarn and place stitches on needle. Bind off or graft with your favourite method.

Hand
Change to MC
Pick up 36 stitches evenly around cuff, K1 round
Knit Around - Pick up 7 stitches evenly - 43 stitches
Knit 2 rounds even.

THUMB GUSSET - RIGHT HAND

K33, PM, M1, K1, M1, PM, K10
Knit 2 rounds even
K33, M1, K3, M1, K10
Knit 2 rounds even
K33, M1, K5, M1, K10
Knit 3 rounds even
K33, M1, K7, M1, K10
Knit 1 round even
K33, M1, K9, M1, K10
Knit 1 round even
K33, M1, K11, M1, K10
Knit 1 round even
K33, M1, K13, M1, K10
Knit 1 round even
K33, M1, K15, M1, K10

THUMB GUSSET - LEFT HAND
K10, PM, M1, K1, M1, PM, K33
Knit 2 rounds even
K10, M1, K3, M1, K33
Knit 2 rounds even
K10, M1, K5, M1, K33
Knit 3 rounds even
K10, M1, K7, M1, K33
Knit 1 round even
K10, M1, K9, M1, K33
Knit 1 round even
K10, M1, K11, M1, K33
Knit 1 round even
K10, M1, K13, M1, K33
Knit 1 round even
K10, M1, K15, M1, K33

On next round, place 17 stitches of gusset on stitch holder - cast on 1 stitch over gap in gusset - Knit to end.

HAND
Knit even until work measures to top of your baby finger.
K2tog at beginning of each needle on next round (Decrease 3 stitches)

HAND SHAPING

*K8, K2tog* around
Knit even
*K7, k2tog* around
Knit even
*K6, k2tog* around
Knit even
*K5, k2tog* around
Knit even
*K4, k2tog* around
*K3, k2tog*, around
*K2, k2tog*, around
*K1, k2tog*, around

Break yarn and thread through last 8 stitches, close hole snugly, weave in ends.

THUMB
Move stitches from holder to needles, distributing evenly.
Knit around, picking up 3 stitches at base of thumb to prevent holes.
Knit around - decrease 1 stitch per row for 3 rows at base of thumb.
Work even until work reaches middle of thumbnail.

*k2tog, K4* 3 times
Knit even
*K2tog, K3* 3 times
Knit even
*K2tog, K2* 3 times
*K2tog, K1* 3 times - 6 stitches left

Break yarn, weave end through remaining stitches, tighten and close hole, weave in ends.

CUFF RIBBING
Pick up 36 stitches with Main colour at cuff edge.
Knit around
K1, P1 ribbing for 4 rounds
Cast off loosely

Weave in all loose ends.

PDF file - Shadow Mittens

Sk8tr Hat

2008-12-09T23:56:00.000-08:00

I purposely made this hat a bit shallow, more like what I assume is a 'skater' hat than a keep-your-ears-and-cheeks-warm hat. It's meant for my almost-9-year-old grandson, but it will fit many teens and adults, too.

The stripe pattern is based on a (very short) Fibonacci sequence, where each set of 2 rows equals 1. (It's okay if that didn't make sense. If it did, Math Geeks Unite!!)

The hat is knit in the round. I used two circular needles to do this, but if you're more comfortable with the magic loop method or DPN's, go for it. I won't be looking over your shoulder, so you can just go wild and I'll never know. Descriptions and videos of these methods can be found here, at KnittingHelp.com.

Size: 19.5"/49,5cm unstretched, up to 23"/58,5cm stretched
Style: Brim to Crown
Gauge: Stockinette stitch in the round 4.5 stitches per inch, 6.5 rows per inch (18 sts/26 rows = 4"/10cm)
Needles: 2 circulars, Size US 10/6mm
Yarn: Red Heart (worsted, light worsted); much less than one skein for main color (MC) and contrasting color (CC)

Abbreviations
K2tog: knit 2 together; RS: right side; ss: stockinette stitch; sts: stitches

Row 1: Cable cast on 72 sts with CC. Join, being careful not to twist stitches.
Row 2: Place marker at the beginning of the round. Knit 2, purl 1. Repeat to the end of the round.
Row 3: Change to MC. Try the jogless join, or just join how you normally do - it's not going to make much of a difference in the look. K2, p1 to end of round.
Rows 4-5: K1, p1, *K2, p1*. Repeat * to * to last stitch. End with K1.
Row 6: K2, p1 to end of round.
Row 7: Change to CC. K2, p1 to end of round.
Rows 8-9: K1, p1, *K2, p1*. Repeat * to * to last stitch. End with K1.
Row 10-11: K2, p1 to end of round.
Row 12: K1, p1, *K2, p1*. Repeat * to * to last stitch. End with K1.
Rows 13-23: Change to MC. Knit ss for 11 rows.
Row 24: K6, k2tog. Repeat to end of round.
Row 25: K to end of round.
Rows 26-35: Continue decreasing (k5, k2tog; k4, k2tog etc.) separating each decrease row with a 'plain' knit row.
Row 36: K1, k2tog to end of row.
Rows 37-38: K2tog to end of row.

You should end up with 8 stitches to finish off, and a cool swirlish decrease pattern.

Cut the yarn, leaving 6-8" for sewing up and weaving in.

Sewing up isn't as terrible as it sounds. Using a yarn needle, thread the yarn tail through the 8 sts as you remove them from the needle(s) and pull it up tight to close the hole. You can tie an itty bitty knot in there somewhere if you want and then weave in the yarn tail. Or you can be more traditional and skip the knot, just doing a bang-up job of weaving in. Again, I won't know.

If you have any other ends, weave them in, too. (Yes, you could have figured that out for yourself, but I'm pretending that this is a "real" pattern!)